Behind Our Clothes

Experiencing the COVID-19 pandemic firsthand made me realise the extent of inequality present within global society. It demonstrated how impossible it is to imagine simply “starting over” when circumstances are so unevenly distributed.

During this period it became clear that many populations in the Global South could not simply pause their lives. The pandemic revealed profound differences in quality of life between Western countries and the rest of the world.

At the same time, the crisis exposed the fragile foundations of the fashion industry.

It is important to remember that fashion did not always function as it does today. Before fashion became synonymous with style, it served as a powerful cultural tool. Clothing once differentiated ethnicities, regions, and communities, expressing pride, identity, and belonging.

However, processes such as colonisation and cultural appropriation gradually reshaped these meanings. Traditions and customs were often abandoned in favour of a supposed “modern” or “civilised” model of life.

Over the past two centuries, patterns of economic expansion and contraction have repeatedly placed certain regions in positions of vulnerability. The textile production chain connects many of these pivotal moments in history to political, economic, and humanitarian circumstances.

Today, fast fashion plays a central role in this transformation.

The system delivers an endless flow of new garments to the market, accelerating the lifespan of clothing and encouraging rapid cycles of consumption. In doing so, it generates boredom and disposability.

A handful of powerful brands influence global trends, consumer behaviour, and industry standards. While some progress toward sustainability has been made, there remains a pressing need for these companies to intensify their efforts.

Beyond adopting sustainable practices internally, leading brands have the capacity to drive systemic change. They can set ambitious environmental targets, improve transparency throughout supply chains, and advocate for policies that prioritise social and environmental responsibility.

The current fashion system is deeply embedded in global economic structures. Low-value textile manufacturing has gradually relocated from China to countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, and Ethiopia, where labour costs remain lower.

This relocation has often come with severe environmental consequences and exploitative working conditions.

The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in 2013 became a tragic symbol of this reality. Since then, movements such as Fashion Revolution have pushed for greater transparency and accountability across the industry.

Despite these efforts, significant uncertainties remain regarding where materials are produced, processed, and dyed.

The fashion industry continues to operate within a complex global network where consumption, labour, and environmental consequences are deeply interconnected.

Understanding this system is essential if we wish to imagine a different future for fashion.

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The Value of Wool

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Losing Yourself